I have been in Leon for 3 nights now. My Spanish has improved dramatically. I am about where I was two years ago plus finally getting used to using two forms of the past tense. There are more than 2, but I will be a lot easier to understand if I even master these two.
My first night here I stayed in the hostel called Lazybones.
It is a sanctuary.
Everyone staying there speaks english, there is a lovely pool, they sell cold beer, there are beautiful plants all around, it is clean, you cannot hear the honking outside, there are computers to use for free, there is coffee available around the clock, and you can wear clothing which in my opinion is more appropriate for the sweltering heat (ie. virtually none),
Outside everyone stares and the men make all manor of noises if you are not wearing blue jeans. Actually, I don´t get the impression the men care much about what you look like or wear, just that you exist and are a woman.
In essence, the hostel is not Nicaragua, but yesterday I paid for another night in the dorm ($8) and just used the pool, drank a beer, and sent a couple emails. It was wonderful, but the Nica working at the front surely thought I was an extravagent fool. The cost of the towel ($1, more proportionate if staying and using for a week), beer ($1.25), and the room was equivalent to a very nice meal in a pretty nice restaurant. To me, it was equivalent to a vacation from my vacation and worth every centivo!
I am not complaining, only exposing that I willingly succumbed to my own weakness for the comforts of privilege. Actually, the home which I was placed in for the duration of my language class is more than I had anticipated. The woman is a vegetarian and a yoga teacher! This seems to me to be very different from the norm here. I went to her yoga class in the home of Belgian couple on Monday and will go again tonight. The meals are good with fresh fruit and hot dog buns (!) for breakfast, beans and rice and something else for lunch and dinner. All meals are served with fresh juice.
One other interesting thing about Leon is that is has the largest art museum in Central America. It is a private collection housed throughout a very old building which has been beautifully restored. There were even a several Picassos amongst some truly great Central and South American works. I am normally not that attracted to a lot of contemporary art, but I really liked a lot of the newer pieces in the collection. It is quite a gem, and with an entry fee of only a dollar it is moderately accessible for the local people.